Markus lupfer why not

There was another shock when trendy Covent Garden boutique Koh Samui immediately bought the collection of 20 items. The retailer asked Lupfer to make more bespoke pieces. He would work on those straight after getting in from his day job as a design assistant at womenswear brand Clements Ribeiro.

It was madness. Lupfer, who now lives in Hackney, used his savings to go it alone. His own products were quickly stocked by Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. All proceeds from sales were reinvested, which made life difficult in With finances squeezed, Lupfer gave himself a sabbatical in from his own company.

No stock was made for a year and he spent time consulting with brands such as Mulberry. He went back to his company in armed with new ideas and signed a lease for the Hoxton building where he is still based.

Dresses and skirts came in whippet print or floral, plus colorblock jolts of Mini Cooper green and smack-in-the-chops fuchsia. Flocked spotted tulle dresses layered over slip inserts or under midnight-blue sequin over-dresses were the seasonal nod to the transparency story he so reliably riffs on.

A teddy bomber looked snuggle-able in the extreme. Traditional in reference yet nonconformist in outlook, this collection was packed with entertaining pieces you could easily imagine rebel-phase Princess Margaret raising havoc in had she been a millennial.

We looked at different artists and thought about the Bloomsbury group and worked to give the clothes a handmade feeling—of things not being so precise. Lupfer has long moved on from his gauzily sheer, ultra-embellishment stage to a more grown-up but equally characterful design identity.

A black sweater, a trench in a pleasant Italian check cotton, and a metallic-hued lip-jacquard dress all featured cute short cloaking at the shoulder, and there was a gentle suggestion of make-do-and-mend in a patched-together field jacket, a three-tone jacquard trench, and the use of mismatched buttons.